CUTTING
After the pattern and material are decided, the problem of cutting our quilt is next.
This is conceded to be the least interesting and most tedious part of quilt making; however, it is certainly not a step that can be hurried as blocks must be cut exact. There is no alternative to this. A woman from Montana asked “What’s wrong with this pattern I got from a friend—it won’t make a blazing star”! And indeed it would not; the angle was too acute. Eight of them would sew together like a saucer, and no two sides of the diamonds were alike in length, the shortest varying from the longest by 5-8 inch!
In the patterns here given the angles and curves have been determined. Lengths are fairly accurate, although seam allowances may vary, and it does make a difference where a certain piece is due to fit. Two triangles, equal sides together should be cut equal, but a triangle against a square of equal length will finish a seam narrow at each end unless extra allowance is made on the triangle.
We suggest that you lay tissue paper over the cutting pattern, allow seams if you want the block to finish the size given, then make up one test block. You may have to change the relation of pattern sides in some cases before transferring your proven patterns onto the cardboards which will be traced around for marking out all parts. It is a matter of preference again whether your master cardboards be the cutting or sewing size. Some like to cut on the pencil line and gauge their seams back from this. Others prefer to cut a seam out from lines which are penciled onto the wrong side of the cloth, then sew back on these lines assuring exact finished sizes.
Blotting paper makes excellent patterns for marking around on any cloth that slips easily, as it clings. Keep all angles sharp: Many an old-time pattern has gradually changed in character and name by being marked around until the points wore down into curves, or shallow curves into deeper ones.
True bias and edges cut with the weave are imperative for right triangle sides, and on equi-angular triangles one side must be with the weave. Squares and oblongs must be with the weave of course. In all of our ready cut quilts this is accurately followed. The center threads in the rays of the “Rising Sun” run directly from center base to apex.
After one sample block is correctly made it is often advantageous to cut or tear the quilt borders from yardage before cutting new material into block units. You know about the area of cloth one given block takes and can easily estimate enough of each color for the number of blocks required. Hence, border strips may be torn to require less piecing before cutting the blocks.
About one yard is required for binding a plain quilt, this cuts on the true bias into strips about 1/2 inches wide. Corners are left from this which also may be cut into block units. Allow 1/2 yards for binding scallop edge quilts.
Cloth should be smooth to cut, so iron any wrinkled material before laying on the patterns. Hold the cardboard firmly in place, mark around evenly with pencil on light goods or with French chalk on dark colors. Draw a thread to straighten cloth when necessary, and cut very carefully. Inaccuracies in cutting are as fatal in their way in this operation as in the so-called “major operations”! And “lastly” cut economically; a thrifty cutter has mighty few scraps left after her patterns have been laid on to the best advantage.
THE APPLIQUE PROCESS
IN CUTTING applique parts the only special admonition is to clip in well to the folding back line on any concave curve—to keep stem widths even and mark accurately, of course. Bias tape is often substituted for cut stems. The sewing part of the applique work is most important. Some like an exact unit of cardboard to press edges back over with a hot iron. A creased edge that bastes back as you go is fairly simple to do. For circles or other convex edges it is best to run a fine gathering thread very near the edge and pull it back to an even fold. This is perfect for creasing back circles like the center in the ready cut “Rising Sun.”
All applique quilts baste first, building up the design, tucking leaf ends under stems, covering stem ends with buds or flowers, and of course these ends which are tucked under do not have to be turned back as the raw edge is covered. The charm of perfect applique is to keep it free from puckers.
When a block or section of the design is basted into place, whip around the edge with tiny blind stitches using thread which matches the material if possible. Fancy stitching such as blanket-stitch, chain or buttonhole is seldom advised. If you want your quilt to have the effect of the old-time “laid on” variety, choose the inconspicuous way of fine workmanship and no embroidery. Applique for other purposes, on aprons, decorative linens and such is usually more effective when buttonholed around, and of course it is a matter of taste in the quilt problem. There is no one way to combine colors, to piece or to quilt, and your idea may be as right as another.
PIECING
Piecing a quilt top is not such a formidable task. Really a knowledge of plain sewing, accuracy and neatness are all that are required to add to that desire to make it yourself. What little helpful tricks and methods we have learned we pass on to you. The special instructions given with each pattern tell you how to build that particular block, unless it is an obviously simple plan.
The two pieces to be sewed together must be accurately placed and firmly held. Triangle or diamond points extend out exactly the width of a seam, as you will find by sewing them. Seams absolutely must be even. If you like a quarter inch seam, and start that way, keep all of them so. Three-sixteenths is the perfect width for ordinary materials in my opinion, and this width is easily gauged by a sewing machine foot. Some makers of exquisite quilts use 1/8 inch strong for their seams, and when the material is very close weave this width will hold. The less material to bunch up underneath at quilting time, the smoother the finished quilt will be. A knot or back stitch may be used to start each little piecing seam, and each must be well fastened at the end, as that seam end will be part of another seam later.
Two bias edges together will stretch unless your sewing thread pulls them a trifle taut. It is better to sew a weave thread against a bias edge when possible as in joining diamonds for the eight pointed star designs. Even a thirty-secondth of an inch if added to several diamonds on one side of a big Lone Star diamond, and the same number less several times on an adjacent point, will throw the plan awry. Seams must be even. Quilt piecing is a most precise craft where a few tiny inaccuracies add quickly into a total of ugly stretch or puckers.
Pieced sections should be pressed; the seam turned to one side is easier and we think better than trying to open all seams flat. Protruding angles may be trimmed as you piece, which will also add to the smoothness of your top.
Your decision as to a seam width and whether or not you allow seams extra to the unit patterns here given will change the estimated sizes a bit. But there is no one size a finished quilt must be If your block finishes 13 inches, where we say about 12, that will simply mean that 36-inch material will not cut the alternate blocks to so good an advantage, but otherwise your size is just as right as ours.
